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Waterworld, or the Floating People of the Lake
May 11, 1999
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People that appear to walk on water!
Islands that float!
A floor that isn't a floor, a house made of reeds, and ground that's always
changing!
Where on earth is this place?
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I'm at Lago Titicaca, on the Peruvian side, panting for air at 3810 meters above
sea level. Lake Titicaca is so big it looks like the ocean, but it's a
huge, clear lake, nestled on a plain in the Andes. "Titicaca" in the
Aymara language means "Puma's Rock," a sacred boulder found on the
southern side of the lake. This is the largest body of water in the world to be
found so high above sea level. It is 284 meters deep and covers an area of 8562
square kilometers. It's deep, deep blue except near the Puno dock, where it's
a scummy, greenish color. Today Liz, who I met on the Inca Trail, and I
took a boat from the docks to visit the Uros Floating Islands.
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There is no place else like this on earth. The Uros people have lived for
centuries on the lake on reed islands they make themselves. The Uros use reeds
for everything: shelter, food, and transport. They build houses out of
reeds, raising a platform off the "ground" and putting in wood
stakes to form the bottom of the house. Today, many of the Uros have added modern
improvements to their traditional fishing and bird-hunting lifestyle, including
putting solar panels on their reed houses!
The Uros have always lived freely on the lake. Many cultures have tried to
invade the Uros, but they have kept their independence. Thanks to Lake Titicaca
and its floating islands, the Uros have been able to flee invaders and live
peacefully in their floating waterworld.
Monica
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Can you chew gum and rub your stomach at the same time? I can't, but the
inhabitants of Isla Taquile, south of Isla Amantani in Lake Titicaca, can spin
yarn, knit it, and walk barefoot across rocky paths without even lookingat
what they're doing. I was amazed to see this!
The Taquile are famous for their textile production, and everyone on the island
wears traditional dress. All males wear either a Yurac umac chullo, which is a
hat with a white top and red bottom with designs on it, or a Pintai chullo, a
totally red hat thatdroops a bit like a Santa Claus hat. The women wear
black or dark blue flared skirts if they're married, brightly colored ones like
green or pink if they're not. They cut their hair short if they're single, but
let it grow long and attach it into braids if they're married. They also wear
long black shawls over their heads. Everyone wears the waist wrap, called the
Tayca waca, which is woven with straw, as well as the bayeta (a sheep wool
shirt).
The designs on all the clothing are supposed to relate to each of six sections of
the islands, although it's difficult to understand. Woven into the cloth you
can see llamas, stars, fish, circles, lightning, and other details. The
people dye their cloth with natural plant dyes. The sale of these fabrics
provides money for the communities, which they share or trade.
I felt very much at home on this island, perhaps being of island descent
myself. There's really nowhere to go, so you have to make an effort to get along
with everybody.
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Abeja - What Next? A Roller Coaster to the
Temple of the Moon?
Meet Monica
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